Domaine Glinavos’ Paleokerisio (“Old-Style” or “Old-School” in the local dialect) is a pleasant potable puzzle. Methodically crafted using traditional methods (read: minimal intervention) in the Ioannina region of Greece from Debina and a splash of Vlahiko, locally grown ancient indigenous varietals, this effusive wine has a little something for everyone. 

Semi-sparkling, semi-dry and all personality, this curious, skin-contact wine isn’t just unique because of its grenade shaped half litre bottle, which is purportedly a relic of the area’s beer-producing legacy. It stands apart because of its versatility, wonderful balance between whimsy and tradition and its rich, unmistakable flavor. 

The crown cap comes off with a satisfying pop and the Aegean island adventure ensues. Gently tumbling into the glass (we recommend jam jars for this one) it appears slightly hazy and amber in color. One would be forgiven for thinking it was a farmhouse ale or a rustic cider. Boisterous and tantalizing aromas of bruised golden apple skin greet the nose with a summery ripe peach note developing behind them and ultimately a hint of brioche and lemon zest. 

A round, complex, but affable palate feels alive with big, flowsy bubbles that uplift the generous ripe white stone fruit and golden apple leesiness, dancing do-si-do around a core of rustic minerality that belies the wine’s humble island origins. A little hint of salinity and a whisper of exotic baking spices balance the slight, fulsome sweetness and a final kiss of raspy tannins gives definition to a wine that might otherwise be almost too exuberant. 

Casual, approachable and whimsical, yet ultimately complex and nuanced, this crowd-pleaser pairs nicely with funky charcuterie (speck, anyone?) or Moules Frites and can even do a surprisingly elegant turn with a sophisticated dessert or cheese course if called upon.

The living definition of a crowd pleaser, this crushable, sessionable orange is a great introduction to the style, and the relatively low alcohol content makes it perfect for any celebration, cozying up with a good book or just the occasional lazy all-day “brunch”. A fun option as an exotic alternative to Prosecco or a great wine to convert that stubborn beer lover in your life.