Fekete Bela, Somloi, Harslevelu, Somlo, Hungary 2013

Fekete Bela, Somloi, Harslevelu, Somlo, Hungary 2013

Fekete Bela, Somloi, Harslevelu, Somlo, Hungary 2013

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Literally translating to “Linden Leaf,” Hárslevelű certainly lends itself to the lime blossom teas and mild honeys that Linden trees are known for. More feminine than the Olaszrizlings and Juhfarks in the region, the texture is remarkably smooth and the acids are well balanced. Loosely bunched berries make it difficult for Botrytis to set it so the flavors are also extremely clean and lighter in body. A pleasantly well-balanced aged white that begins with strong notes of honey, lime blossom and faint orange peel on the nose. Bursting with rich ripe white stone fruit. Best served with a stiff chill, and also great for a cute spritz or cocktail addition.

Somló (Shoam-low) is Hungary’s smallest appellation and once an underwater volcano. Now dormant, its slopes of ancient sea sediment, hardened lava, and basalt are home to some of Hungary’s steepest, most densely planted vineyards. Driving up to Somló from Lake Balaton, it’s like seeing an island rise up from the ocean’s horizon — nothing else around survived the retreating ocean. The oldest writings mentioning the wine of Somló date back to 1093 and viticulture all the way back to the Romans. Hungarian Kings bought vineyards here, Maria Theresa and Queen Victoria both praised the wines, and insurgent Hungarian troops fighting against the Hapsburgs would solute the vineyards as they marched past at the end of the 17th century. In 1752, local laws stated that if you were found adding water to wine, expect 25 lashings as the minimum punishment. If you were found to be labeling wine as Somló but using other fruit sources, you would be banned from making wine permanently and might even have your property confiscated. 

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